And the spa would be...? - 20 October 2008

One of the recurring themes is that things haven't been as bad as we expected.  Until now...

Today's trek was from Dengboche to Lobuche.  Lobuche is referenced in several of the Everest books I've read, and always in a negative light.  From reading the books it sounds like the climbers prefer to camp in their own tents and eat their own food rather than stay in the tea houses - we're about to learn why.

Like Thengboche, there was an animated conversation between the porter and guide when we got to town.  Again, it looks like we got the last room in town.  This one takes the cake, though.  It looks as though they've carved it off from the dining room, and it's short enough that when I'm lying in bed my feet act as a lumbar support for the people on the other side of the wall.

Plus, it's not completely enclosed - there's a gap at the end of the hallway that's open to our room.  And, the glass in the window leaves about 1/4" gap.

There are two toilets to choose from:

• Downstairs, which is private but also doubles as the room where they dry the yak dung that they use for cooking.
• Upstairs, where it's pseudo-western style (there's a toilet, but there's no way any part of my body is touching it), but they've seen fit to put a window right above the toilet with no window covering.  There is simply no way to use this toilet without exposing yourself to the entire town.  Under enough duress, however, you get over it.

At dinner there was chaos.  The girl working the counter would scream out orders in her best Frau Farbissina voice, while all of the guides are trying to use the telephone (on speakerphone).  It was bad enough while eating dinner, but it went on while we were trying to sleep.

I cracked my head again, this time on the ceiling beam in the yak dung drying room.  That's two (visible) lines on my noggin now.  Jen doesn't know whether to laugh at me or cry.

At least we're better off than our guide.  He had to sleep in the common room after everyone went to sleep.

Compounding matters, they're charging the extortionary rate of $10/night per room.  This is almost twice the going rate, for inferior accomodation.

But hey, at least there's good scenery: