She's been through the desert on a camel with a stoner's name - 11 April 2009

I slept really well on the train, which was a surprise. Truthfully I've slept better during this year than I can ever remember sleeping - probably something to do with actually moving instead of typing all day.

Breakfast proved to be yet another disappointment, consisting of a selection of prepackaged breads, and the soap they gave us on the train was labeled "Good Luck." This causes a vague sense of unease.

Oh, and in case there was any doubt, we're no longer in happy-go-lucky traveler land. We thought that we'd be able to check into the hotel early and clean up, but it turns out that we can't check-in until noon. We have the option to go on a tour of Aswan for $35 US, but elect to sit (scowling) in the lobby of the hotel until we're allowed to check in. For the record, my journal does say "I need an attitude adjustment."

Once we get checked in and cleaned up, it's time to take a boat tour around Aswan.


Not to get all nerdy on you - but think of what people will find from our increasingly electronic civilization a few thousand years from now. Will they wonder if we even had written language?

After the boat tour, it was time for a camel ride. Now, in the interest of full disclosure I have to add that I don't like riding camels, or horses, or donkeys (the last of which will feature prominently when we visit the valley of the kings). My dislike of camels dates back to 2003, when I made the mistake of wearing boxer shorts for a camel ride on a camel named Simpson, after the Australian desert. I didn't repeat that mistake, but I'm still not a fan of being jostled around like a sack of potatoes in the name of having "fun". (Oh, and HEY YOU KIDS - GET OUTTA MY YARD!)

In case you were wondering, stoner culture is alive and well all around the world. Here's Jen's camel:

Yep, that's Bob Marley.

After the camel ride we visited a Nubian village, where we got to hold a crocodile:

Yeah, I know its mouth is banded shut, but it was still exciting.

Then we had a real Nubian dinner, and it was delicious. It's amazing the difference food can make in a journey. It doesn't have to be familiar, just enjoyable.

After a packed day, we returned to the hotel where our tour guide, Momdouh, made a heart out of a palm frond for Easter:


But the day didn't end on a high note, unfortunately. We're supposed to get up really early tomorrow to join up with a convoy to go visit Abu Simpel. Now I'm not talking about a cool mid-70's convoy - the kind you'd use as an excuse for a crappy movie. No, I'm talking about the kind of convoy that tourists join for their protection, with armed police at each end.

Since we want to look good in case we end up on CNN, we'd like to clean up the night before. Only there's no hot water. It takes 3 calls to get someone to the room, at which point I'm told that they have to replace the hot water tank, and that it will be 11:30 before there's hot water. Jen's already passed out from exhaustion at this point, but I stay up until 11:30 - only to find that not only is there not hot water, there's no water at all.

Good times...